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2022, vol. 70, br. 4, str. 14-21
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Dizajn i karakterizacija Seersucker tkanina na Tencelu
Design and characterization of Tencel-based Seersucker fabrics
aAkın Textile A.S., Design Centre, Kırklareli, Turkey bMarmara University, Faculty of Technology, Department of Textile Engineering, Istanbul, Turkey cMarmara University, Faculty of Technology, Department of Textile Engineering, Istanbul, Turkey + Marmara University, Center for Nanotechnology & Biomaterials Application and Research (NBUAM), Istanbul, Turkey
e-adresa: m.uzun@marmara.edu.tr
Sažetak
Dizajn tkanine Seersucker karakteriše novu kombinaciju struktura tkanine koja se takođe može koristiti u različitim predivima zasnovanim na održivim vlaknima. Takve strukture tkanine privlače pažnju uglavnom zbog svojih udobnostnih svojstava, kao i odeće koja se lako održava. Jedno od najčešće korišćenih regenerisanih vlakana je Tencel, koje je takođe poznato kao liocel vlakno. Tencel se proizvodi korišćenjem drveća eukaliptusa. Tencel ima brojne primene, kao što su teksas tkanine, pantalone, majice, svilenkasti donji veš, itd. Takođe je važno napomenuti da novi pristupi dizajna zasnovani na Tencel vlaknima dobijaju pažnju u kontekstu kružnog dizajna razmišljanje. U ovoj studiji je korišćen efekat istog odnosa mešanja Tencel-a na različite dizajne naboranih površina, a ključna svojstva dizajniranih tkanina su testirana i analizirana. Osnovni cilj je da se primene svojstva Tencel vlakana kako bi se poboljšao strukturalni komfor tkanina za šivenje. Proces proizvodnje projektovanih tkanina je optimizovan nakon početnih ispitivanja sa podešavanjima razboja i brojem niti osnove i potke. Nakon 30 različitih kombinacija procesa, odabrano je 6 različitih tkanina za proizvodnju. Strukturna svojstva 6 različitih uzoraka su uspešno standardizovana i njihova strukturna svojstva su ispitana.
Abstract
Seersucker fabric design features a new combination of fabric structures that can also be used in various yarns based on sustainable fibers. Such fabric structures attract attention mainly due to their comfort properties, as well as easy-care clothing. One of the most commonly used regenerated fibers is Tencel, which is also known as lyocell fiber. Tencel is produced by using eucalyptus trees. Tencel has a number of applications, such as denim fabrics, pants, t-shirts, silky underwear, etc. It is also important to note that Tencel fiber-based new design approaches based on Tencel fibers are gaining attention in the context of circular design thinking. In this study, the effect of the same blend ratio of Tencel on different puckering surface designs was used, and the key properties of the designed fabrics were tested and analyzed. The principal objective is to apply the properties of Tencel fibers to improve the structural comfort of seersucker fabrics. The manufacturing process of the designed fabrics was optimized after the initial tests with the settings of the loom and the number of warp and weft threads. After 30 different process combinations, 6 different fabrics were selected for production. The structural properties of the 6 different patterns were successfully standardized and their structural properties were examined.
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