2014, vol. 62, br. 4, str. 23-28
|
|
Enzimski tretman vune - pregled
Enzymatic treatment of wool: A review
Ključne reči: enzimi; vunene vlakna; svojstva vlakana; električni otpor površine; električni otpor volumena; stepen skupljanja; sposobnost absorpcije boja
Keywords: enzymes; wool fibres; fibre properties; electrical surface resistance; electrical volume resistance; shrinking degree; dye absorption ability
Sažetak
Tendencija da se vune fi lca i skuplja je uglavnom zbog svoje ljuspičaste strukture. Enzimski tretman tekstila značajno poboljšava neke od svojih osobina, kao i poveć ava njihove estetske vrednosti i udobnost korišć enja. Primena enzima u procesu modifi kacije vune je proučavano, i je dokazano da ima važan uticaj na promene u strukturi površine. Međutim, iako su proteaze veliki molekuli, njihov napad nije ograničen samo na krljušti, nego prodru unutar vlakana izazivajuć i neprihvatljivu težinu i gubitak jačine. Ako su proteaze hemijski modifi kovani u cilju poveć anja njihove molekulske težine, onda ć e delovati samo na površini vlakana, čime se obezbeđuje vuna sa anti-skupljanjem. Obični enzim prodire u korteksa vlakana vuna, dok modifi kovani enzim, sa već im veličinom, je zadržan na površini, u sloju kutikule. Modifi kovani proteaze može biti obeć avajuć a alternativa za vuna bio-dorade na industrijskom nivou, jer je to efi kasan način uklanjanja krljušti vune.
Abstract
The tendency of wool to felt and shrink is mainly due to its scaly structure. The enzymatic treatment of textiles significantly improves some of their properties as well as increases their aesthetic values and comfort of use. The application of enzymes in the wool modification process was studied, and it was proven that the application of enzymes has an important influence on changes in the surface structure. However, although proteases are large molecules, their attack is not only limited to the scales, they penetrate inside the fibre causing unacceptable weight and strength loss. It is believed that if the proteases are chemically modified in order to increase their molecular weight, then they will act just on the surface of the fibres, thus providing wool with anti-shrinking behaviour. The free enzyme penetrated into wool fibre cortex while the modified enzyme, with a bigger size, was retained at the surface, in the cuticle layer. Modified proteases can be a promising alternative for wool bio-finishing processes at an industrial level, since it is an effective way of removing wool scales.
|